Once a symbol of prestige and the primary mode of transportation during the Philippines’ Spanish and American colonial periods, the kalesa—a horse-drawn carriage—now serves as a living reminder of the country’s rich cultural heritage. It offers tourists a nostalgic journey with various tours around the city of Vigan, where time seems to stand still amid the hustle and bustle of modern life.
In a series of interviews with The Benildean, kutseros along the heritage street of Calle Crisologo in Vigan shared their experiences in the trade of carriage driving. From picking up the craft as a family tradition to juggling sidelines with the job, their stories paint a vivid picture of how the kalesa has provided for them and kept the city’s cultural heritage alive.
Ate Marites Padron, 43
Ate Marites began the craft of carriage driving when she was 20 years old. A college graduate who was about to enter the workforce, she inherited her father’s kalesa. Since then, she has been in the trade for 23 years already, having established a routine as a kutsero, “Pagbangon ng umaga, nagpapakain ako ng kabayo, at linisin [ito] bago lumabas.”
Upon being asked what first-time passengers should expect from the ride, Ate Marites mentioned that kutseros will take passengers to the top destinations within the city, sharing their knowledge of the different local attractions. “I-to-tour sila kung saan sila pupunta. Yung mga magandang destinasyon dito. Gina-guide sila ng mga kutsero kung saan sila papatungo.”
Moreover, Ate Marites has a regular route she brings passengers to. This would take tourists through various locations in the city. “May “seven-tour-spot” kami rito, kagaya ng Crisologo Museum, Bell Tower, National Museum, Syquia Mansion, Pottery Village, Hidden Garden, Baluarte Zoo. Iikot po ‘yung kalesa sa mga lugar na iyon.”
While the longstanding job of Ate Marites seems stable, there are still some challenges she regularly faces such as waiting for passengers. “Yung mag-antay ng pasahero at mga turista tuwing off-season at i-entertain sila kung sa’n sila pupunta.” Besides that, there’s also the case of lack of support given by the local government. She voiced out, “Wala binibigay na pondo. Yung mga kinakailangang gamit lang talaga ng mga kabayo ‘yung binibigay,” referring to how the local government only gives occasionally vitamins and medical check-ups to the horses.
Regardless of those issues, Ate Marites still sees a bright future for her trade. She remarked, “Sa katagalan ng pagkakalesa noon, buhay pa rin ito ngayon. Sana may sunod na henerasyon pang magmana sa pagkakalesa at hindi ito mawala.” Similarly, when asked if today’s youth are interested in the craft, she added that there still are young people willing to pursue carriage driving. “Meron din naman mga ilan-ilan na interasado pa rin sa pagkakalesa kahit alam nilang mahirap.”
For Ate Marites, the trade of being a kutsero has been part of the province’s history and country’s culture. “Sa unang-una pa lang, ang pagkakalesa ay source of transportation noon dito. Hanggang ngayon, dinadayo pa rin dito yung mga kalesa. Ito yung mukha ng turismo dito.” She believes that by continuing this tradition, it will not only maintain a piece of history but also celebrate the lively tourism of the city.
With that in mind, she encourages visiting tourists to try a kalesa ride to explore the city for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. “Noon, kalesa lang ‘yung transportasyon. Pero ‘yung iba na hindi pa nararanasan sumakay sa kalesa, sasakay sila for the experience. Magiging interesado sila.”
Kuya Florentino Abella, 58
Another longtime kutsero is Kuya Florentino who has been in the trade for 37 years. He also started when he was around 21 years old. Previously a farmer in his younger days, Kuya Florentino switched trades for a more stable source of income to support his family.
“Dati kasi, farmer ako. Ngayon, ang farmer ay maganda naman pero kapag dumadating ang mga bagyo, ‘yung malaking gastos mo sa puhunan mawawala lahat. ‘Tas kapag uutang ka pa para sa mga gastusin at malaki ito, lulublob ka lang sa utang. Kaya nandito ako ngayon. Nakita ko itong kalesa at noon pa, mahilig na ako sa kabayo. ‘Pag lumabas ka, meron kang pera. Napapa-aral ko mga anak ko kaya maganda itong kalesa,” he narrated.
Despite Vigan being a relatively small city, there’s a lot to see for visiting tourists. Kuya Florentino expressed his pride for being a part of the city’s tourism. “Dito sa Vigan, kahit maliit na siyudad, punung-puno ito ng history. ‘Yon ang ipinagmamalaki rito. Maganda ang Vigan, malinis, at mapayapa. Maraming maiikutan ‘yung mga turista kapag nasakay sila ng kalesa.”
He also mentioned how riding a kalesa in Vigan is different from Manila as the experience is accentuated by the quaint architecture seen across the city, stating “Bale itong kalesa, kasabay nito ang mga lumang bahay dito sa Ilocos. Kaya halimbawa ‘yung mga turista pumunta rito sa Vigan, kapag hindi sila nakasakay ng kalesa, parang hindi sila nakapunta ng Vigan.”
With Kuya Florentino’s extensive experience as a kutsero, he has also branched out to similar trades. This includes teaching for rodeo events–exhibitions or contests in which cowboys show their skills at bull riding, wrestling from horseback, and lassoing from horseback. He explained, “Marami akong ginagagawa, ‘di lang ang pagkakalesa–katulad ng pagtuturo ng rodeo. Nagta-training ako ng mga kabayo na malalaki.“
On top of the sidelines he has, the local government gives some support to him explaining, “Halimbawa tuwing Pasko, may ibinibigay samin. Yung mayor namin, nililibre pa ‘yung mga permit namin bilang mga nagkakalesa.” However, this isn’t enough as assistance is given only occasionally, with Kuya Florentino continuing to take on his rodeo gigs.
For Kuya Florentino, he has a more cautious outlook his trade. “Iilan na lang ‘yung mga kabataan na interesado sa pagkakalesa.” Moreover, he said that the professionalism of the kutseros plays a huge part in the success of the craft as part of the city’s tourism, ending with “Kung maganda ‘yung pinapakita ng mga kutsero sa mga turista, siyempre babalik-balikan ka. Mababit ang mga kutsero. Ipinapakita namin na ang Vigan ay talagang tapat mag-alaga sa mga turista.”
Kuya Fernando Tolentino, 33
One of the younger kutseros around Vigan is Kuya Fernando. Like Ate Marites, his kalesa was passed down in the family, more specifically from his grandfather as his parents didn’t pursue the trade.
Additionally, Kuya Fernando has been taking care of several horses on a daily basis. “10 ‘yung inaalagaan kong kabayo. Simula sa paggising, diretso na agad [ako] sa pagtrabaho– pagpapakain, paglinis, at sinisigurado na alagang alaga sila. Iba-iba ‘yung mga preparasyon ginagawa ko rin sa bawat kabayo kasi may iba’t-ibang mga pangangailangan sila.”
Furthermore, he also described the difficulties he’s facing, having to take a part-time job working at funeral homes from time to time. “Depende sa season po kasi may mga buwan na wala masyadong mga turista. [...] May mga iba na nangangalesa na suma-sideline sa punerarya katulad ‘ko.”
As a kutsero, Kuya Fernando has some recommended spots where he takes his passengers for tours while detailing his experience in carriage driving. “Maganda naman ang pagkakalesa rito. Maraming magandang pasyalan dito katulad ng mga museum, pottery, Hidden Garden, Baluarte Zoo at iba pa.” With those repeatedly recommended sights, tourists are sure to be more encouraged to see them when they visit Vigan.
In line with that, Kuya Fernando underscored the role his trade plays in the city’s tourism. He detailed, “Malaki [‘yung papel na ginagampanan ng pagkakalesa] dahil malawak ‘yung sakop ng mga nangangalesa sa turismo ng Vigan. Katulad nito ay ang pag-iingat namin sa mga turista na pasaherong nasakay. Nakakahiya naman kapag ibabalita na hindi ligtas ‘yung mga turista sa pagsakay nila sa kalesa namin.”
Lastly, Kuya Fernando imparted his sentiments on how his trade of being a kutsero will persist over time, citing the support the local government gives. “Dati naman parte na ‘yung pagkakalesa sa kultura ng Ilocos. Matagal na. Noong dating panahon, puro kalesa na rito. [...] Siguro tatagal naman po yung industriya ng pagkakalesa. [...] Iba’t ibang suporta ibinibigay ng lokal na gobyerno namin. Kung may mga problema kami, pwede kami humingi ng tulong sa kanila.“
Robin Florento, 29
Kuya Robin Florento, a 29-year-old kalesa rider, has been guiding his horse-drawn carriage through the historic streets of Vigan since he was just 13 years old. "Ito na po yung pang hanapbuhay namin," he proudly states, continuing a legacy handed down from his father and grandfather. For Kuya Robin, caring for his horse is more than just a job, it’s a deeply rooted tradition. When asked how he cares for both his kalesa and his horse, he explained that he treats it with the same attention and affection as he would a family member.
"Itong kabayo po tatlong beses [sila kumain] sa isang araw, araw-araw [rin] silang naliligo, pinapalitan ng bakal para hindi mapudpod yung kuko nila, parang tao rin kasi yan, satin lumalaki, ganon rin sa kanila."
Every day, he bathes his horse three times and replaces its horseshoes to ensure its comfort and health. His four-year-old horse has become a living symbol of Vigan, representing the city’s rich cultural heritage. When asked about the future of the kalesa industry, Kuya Robin expressed confidence in its enduring legacy, stating, "Tatagal po ito, kasi ito na ang pinaka-mukha ng Vigan." Through his dedication, he keeps this iconic piece of Vigan’s history alive.
Ditas Gonzalo
Manang Ditas, a kalesa rider, has been a beloved figure in Vigan for the past 12 years. Her work has not only sustained her but has also allowed her to support and educate her two children. "12 years na po akong nagkakalesa, at nakapagtapos na rin po ako ng dalawang anak dahil dito," she shares with pride. Her horse has been with her for eight years, becoming an integral part of her daily life. "Yung mga first-timer, ma-eenjoy po nila ang mag-ikot sa Vigan, dahil parang nararanasan po nila ang panahon noon," she explains, highlighting how the kalesa offers visitors a glimpse into the past.
Manang Ditas underscores the kalesa's deep cultural significance in Ilocos. "Ang kalesa po ay naging kultura na ng Ilocos, kasi simula pa noong panahon ng Kastila, nung wala pang sasakyan, talagang [laganap] ang kalesa." This rich tradition has been handed down through generations, from her grandparents to her parents, and now to her. "Karamihan po [sa’min] dito nagsimula sa lolo, tatay, anak, at apo, ‘yung kalesa namin na ito mula pa po sa mga lolo at tatay namin." Through her kalesa, Manang Ditas not only supports her family but also preserves and celebrates a cherished piece of Ilocos heritage.
In the heart of Vigan, Ilocos Sur, the kutseros continue to be more than a means of transportation. They’re a reminder of the rich cultural heritage the city has. The kutseros, with their deep-rooted connections to Vigan’s history, play a crucial role in preserving and showcasing the city’s unique charm, undoubtedly making Vigan a notable UNESCO World Heritage site.
Priced at ₱200 for a 30-minute sightseeing tour, the kalesa offers passengers an immersive journey around Vigan, connecting them to the city’s rich past.
As Vigan embraces modern times, the kutseros reinforce the importance of maintaining traditional cultural practices amidst a rapidly changing world. By taking a ride in a kalesa, visitors and locals alike get to connect with Vigan’s vibrant past, celebrating the kutseros’ unwavering commitment to bringing the Vigan experience to people from all walks of life. This ensures that the kalesa, while an attraction today, is a historical element that remains a cherished part of the city’s identity.
