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Layout By Alia Medina.

Beyond Bicol Express: Diving into Bicolano delicacies


The fresh air, a harmony of birdsongs, and dappled sunlight streaming through leaves—is there anything else that could make your trip to Bicol better? Why, good food, of course!


By Jorel Magistrado, Isabella Magallanes, and Kiel Mananquil | Thursday, 1 August 2024

Bicol is best known for its breathtaking coastal and mountainous areas. However, a trip to this province wouldn’t be complete without tasting the local cuisine. Whether you’re a spice aficionado or someone who enjoys more mellow flavors, these restaurants scattered across the Bicol region will provide you a culinary experience like no other.

 

One might consider the following spots elusive—one sitting next to the national road, the other nestled against a beachfront. It’s best to traverse these areas by car, but trust that uncovering them bodes a delicious outcome for any visitor. From the vinegary lightness of Kinunot to the fiery intensity of Bicol Express, you can take your pick of Bicol’s many comfort foods. 

 

Treat yourself after whale shark-watching with KawnKita Restaurant!

Just a stone's throw away from Donsol’s world-famous whale shark tour is a tranquil resort,   home to an unassuming yet delightful restaurant. KawnKita—a playful nod to the phrase “kaon kita,” meaning “let’s eat”—offers Filipino classics and unique Bicolano dishes that celebrate the flavors of both the mountains and the sea. Located within the Amor Farm Beach Resort along the Pio-Duran Coastal Road, it’s the perfect spot to relax and recharge after the whale shark tour or before embarking on Donsol’s enchanting firefly river tour.

 

Kinunot

The perfect embodiment of Bicol’s culture, history, and geography, Kinunot is a must-try at ₱225. This house specialty, the vinegar’s tang and acidity were slightly more pronounced than usual, but it is still, in essence, kinunot. The shredded fish is sweet and tender, perfectly complemented by the rich and creamy coconut milk. Infused with the signature Bicolano heat from the chili peppers and accented by the moringa or malunggay leaves, this “Forget Me Not Kinunot” is truly unforgettable.

 

Adobadong Manok

Adobado comes from the Spanish word “adobada,” meaning “marinated.” Similar to many adobado recipes nationwide, the protein is typically marinated before cooking. However, Bicolano adobado distinguishes itself by incorporating coconut milk into the dish. 

 

KawnKita’s Adobadong Manok, playfully labeled as “Go Go Go Adobado,” defies its whimsical and entertaining name with a serious and delightful culinary experience. The dish, priced at ₱300, is mainly composed of chicken breast that, surprisingly, boasts tenderness despite its lean nature. The mild sweetness of the unripe papaya balances the kick of the chili peppers that are infused in the creamy and rich coconut milk, while the lemongrass lends an aromatic complexity to the dish, rounding out the flavors.

 

Vegetable Curry

KawnKita’s Vegetable Curry (₱195), labeled “Crazy Curry II,” is a great way to balance all the creamy and rich dishes that the restaurant offers. The vegetables are cooked al dente in a flavorful Filipino curry sauce that we’re all familiar with. This dish is best shared among three to four companions.

 

Hinalabos na Hipon

Halabos refers to a simple technique for cooking shrimp, crab, or any other crustaceans in salt, water, spices, and sometimes carbonated lemon drinks.

 

KawnKita’s “Who’s The Boss? Hinalabos” is a simple yet mouthwatering dish. The prawns, cooked in butter and garlic, showcase their natural sweetness. Fresh and perfectly tender, the prawns are the star of this dish. Best shared among two to three people, this delectable treat is priced at ₱300.

 

Adobadong Pusit

Bicolandia is a mountainous region surrounded by seas on both sides. It’s not surprising that most of their dishes marry the bountiful harvests of both the ocean and the mountains. A masterful example of this is KawnKita’s “Pusit Opposite,” priced at ₱250. Tender, succulent squid is cooked in an aromatic blend of garlic, onion, and ginger, all brought to perfection with a Bicolano trademark of a fiery kick from coconut milk.

 

Calamares

Aptly named “Hard to Miss Calamares,” KawnKita's Calamares (₱300)  is truly hard to miss as they are humongous compared to the usual. The batter, made from flour, bread crumbs, and pepper, is cooked until golden brown, while the squid is tender and not chewy, pairing perfectly with the provided sweet chili sauce. The dish is ideally shared among two to three people, but ordering another plate is simply the best way to end the culinary experience at KawnKita.

 

Amor Farm Beach Resort, proudly described on their social media as a “well-maintained family endeavor,” extends this heartfelt dedication to their restaurant, KawnKita. The dishes served not only reflect the meticulous care of the owners of the resort, but also capture the natural beauty of Sorsogon and Filipino hospitality. Together, the resort and the restaurant evoke an atmosphere of tranquility and warmth, creating a haven for tourists to savor the serenity of Donsol and the flavors of Bicol. 

 

Do note that the restaurant closes during the off-season, so make sure you schedule your visit around their peak times!

 

Enjoy a home away from home with Casa Soriano Family Heirloom Cuisine

Tucked away from the hustle of the national road lies Casa Soriano Family Heirloom Cuisine, a hidden gem ready to welcome you into its homey atmosphere. First established in 2014, Casa Soriano offers its quaint interior and a delicious blend of different cuisines alongside must-try Filipino favorites. Its location on the national highway in Concepcion Grande, 39 AH26, Naga makes it a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it food spot. 

 

Despite this, its good food, ambience, and inviting interior set itself as a stop-over worth looking out for. 

 

Kinunot 

Casa Soriano’s take on the Bicolano classic, Kinunot (₱250), offers a balanced medley of vinegar to counter the dish’s fishiness, and a spicy sauce that complements the subtle sweetness of the gata in which the dish sits nicely in. 

 

Pinangat and Laing

Pinangat and laing are two dishes that are so similar but also so different. While both dishes feature gabi (taro) leaves, a spiced coconut sauce, and shredded meat, there is a clear distinction between their taste and preparation. Unlike laing, the gabi leaves in pinangat are combined and used to wrap the meat in the dish. The result is a distinct flavor from the leaves integrated into the taste of the meat, balanced by a thick coconut sauce poured on top of the dish. Casa Soriano’s pinangat dish is priced at ₱240 and serves two people. 

 

Moreover, much like the previous dish, a definite attribute of Casa Soriano’s Laing (₱260) is the intensity of flavor from the gabi leaves. The leaves are the star of this dish, with the rich coconut sauce and seasoned shredded meat acting as delicious additions to the dish’s flavor profile. 

 

Bicol Express 

Casa Soriano’s take on the classic Bicolano dish packs a spicy punch. The red chilies are clear as day amidst the minced pork, both served with a hearty portion of the dish’s iconic creamy gata. This dish is priced at ₱260 and serves three people. 

 

Porchetta 

The Porchetta, priced at ₱980, is a comforting dish that is sure to earn its spot among your top three dishes from this restaurant. The simple spices used in this dish do not overpower the flavor of the meat. Instead, they serve to enrich the overall taste of the dish. A balanced ratio between meat, fat, and skin will not leave you hanging and will have you craving for more of this hearty dish.  

 

Casa Soriano’s rustic charm is exemplified by its warm Filipino aesthetic, with its verdant exterior establishing itself as a retreat from the urban hustle. The servers are also attentive, adding to the pleasant experience of eating at the restaurant. 

 

It is worth noting that the restaurant's peak hours are normally during the later hours of the day, and their peak months are during the “-ber” months.

 

These restaurants truly are a must-try the next time you find yourself in Mayon Volcano’s homeland. Though Bicol is well-known for its affinity for sili, the region presents a vast depth of flavors and the numerous ways in which they can utilize a single ingredient—like gata. 

 

So enjoy a spoonful of pinangat at Casa Soriano just before you head home or indulge in the prawns from Kawnkita after butanding watching. Either way, your taste buds will surely be delighted!

 

If you are interested in learning more about these food spots, you can view Casa Soriano’s Facebook page here and KawnKita’s TripAdvisor page here

Last updated: Thursday, 1 August 2024